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Choosing Wallpaper - How Will Colors Affect My Room?
A good general guideline for choosing the color scheme of a room is to look at what you already have. We call these your "givens." What is in the room now that must stay ....more
Wallpaper Installation - Preparing Your Walls
Your First Steps
Every great journey begins with one small step. And when it comes to hanging wallpaper, the first step is one of the most important ....more
Wallpaper Installation - How To Hang Wallpaper
Tools of the Trade. The road to redecorating can be paved with many potholes. But if you have the right tools, your journey to a beautiful new home will be a whole lot smoother ....more
Woodchip wallpaper What is it?
The interior design statement that says “I really can’t be bothered’, knackered walls or ‘student let’. Woodchip wallpaper is quite literally wallpaper with wood chips in it ....more
Choosing Wallpaper - How Will Colors Affect My Room?
A good general guideline for choosing the color scheme of a room is to look at what you already have. We call these your "givens." What is in the room now that must stay? You may have a carpet or tile color that dictates the color scheme. Also, notice the color scheme of the clothes in your closet to see which colors you personally prefer.
Warm Colors Cool Colors Neutral Colors
Dark Colors Light Colors Bright Colors
Subdued Colors
Warm Colors: Reds, yellows, oranges and peaches are warm colors. Intense warm colors create exciting spaces, while subdued warm colors form pleasant rooms for social gatherings. Warm colors are often used in eating areas, like breakfast or dining rooms.
Warm colors also help make north rooms more inviting. Research has shown that people actually feel warmer in a room painted with yellows, reds or oranges than they do in a white or blue room. In colder climates, warm colors are a popular choice.
Warm Colors: advance toward the viewer - are masculine - are informal - are cozy - are intimate - are inviting
Cool Colors: Blues, greens, lavenders and grays are cool colors. Intense cool colors are fresh and dramatic, while subdued cool grays are tranquil. Cool colors make rooms feel less confining. They are often used in bathrooms and other small rooms.
Use cool colors in west-facing kitchens, porches and other areas where afternoon heat is a problem. In very warm climates, using white and cool colors exclusively can make an entire house seem more comfortable.
Cool Colors: recede or appear farther away - enlarge a room - are feminine - are formal, are calming, are tranquil
Neutral Colors: Neutral colors are shades of white, gray or beige. Most neutrals are tinted slightly with a warm or cool color. Neutral-colored walls provide a backdrop that does not compete with furnishings and accessories.
Light Colors: Light colors create bright, spacious rooms. To the eye, light colors seem to recede, making rooms appear larger and ceilings higher.
Since light colors reflect the most light, they can brighten a north-facing room, a closet or dark hallway. White walls form a neutral background that does not compete with furnishings.
Wall roughness and paint sheen can affect the lightness of any color. Smooth surfaces and gloss paints reflect maximum light to make a color seem lighter. Rough-textured walls and flat sheen paints hold more shadow and minimize the lightness of a color.
Light Colors: reflect light - make a room appear larger - make a room appear more open and spacious
Dark Colors: Use dark colors to create an intimate room. Because dark colors absorb light, walls appear closer to make the room seem smaller.
Darker colors can be used to disguise problem areas such as uneven walls, or to make a high ceiling seem lower. In heavy-use areas, dark colors can help hide wear. Rough surfaces and flat paint finishes make colors seem darker because they absorb more light.
Dark walls tend to dominate, so you may choose to use lighter-colored accents to add balance to a room. When the walls are dark, it is a good idea to tint the ceiling paint slightly with the wall color to make the room blend and work together.
Dark Colors: absorb light - are intimate - are heavy - are quiet - make a room appear smaller
Bright Colors: Bright colors are highly saturated with pigment. They are not diluted by white or darkened by black. Bright colors work well in active spaces like recreation rooms, sun porches and children's rooms. Because bright colors draw attention, they are often used as accents in rooms with neutral or subdued color schemes.
Bright Colors: create excitement - are active - work in low light area
Subdued Colors: Subdued colors are less saturated with pigment than bright colors. They are blended to include mixtures of white, black or gray. Subdued colors are relaxing and restful, and are frequently used in studies and bedrooms, and form a soft background in bathrooms and dressing rooms. You can increase visual interest in a subdued room by adding a few brightly-colored accents.
Subdued Colors: are restful - are tranquil - are quiet.
Wallpaper Installation - Preparing Your Walls
Your First Steps
Every great journey begins with one small step. And when it comes to hanging wallpaper, the first step is one of the most important. Wallpaper can't cling to greasy, dirty walls, old wallpaper or paint. That's why we can't emphasize enough how critical it is to have your walls properly prepared.
Sizing Things Up - One-step primer/sealers have all but eliminated the need for wall sizing. A coat of acrylic primer provides a new, even surface on the wall which makes it easier to slide wallcoverings into position. It also prevents the wall itself from absorbing moisture, which protects against future damage. Alkyd (oil) primers are equally, if not more, effective. However, an acrylic primer or regular sizing should also be used over the alkyd primer to provide adequate slippage.
Something Old - Existing walls need special attention. Paint can create problems based upon its original quality or how long it has been on the wall. If it's old, paint can become unstable and should be sealed with primer/sealer to insure a successful wallcovering installation.
Filling the Holes - Nail holes, chips, cracks and wall irregularities should be filled with vinyl spackling compound before primer is applied. Use a broad knife to apply spackle right from the can. Force the compound well into the hole and smooth the surface. When the compound dries, sand, smooth and seal the wall with a primer.
Don't Forget to Wash - Surfaces coated with flat (non-gloss) paint should be scraped (if old and flaking), sanded smooth and washed with an all-purpose cleaner. When dry, apply acrylic primer and hang wallcovering.
Walls covered with high- or semi-gloss paint should be sealed with an acrylic primer. In a room where mildew occurs, wash the wall with a mixture of bleach and water. Rinse, let dry and apply primer.
The Grunge Look - Mildew can show up on walls as a yellow, green, gray or black colored area. If this occurs, wash walls with a concentrated solution of one cup bleach and one gallon of hot water. Apply with a paint brush and let sit for one hour. Rinse with warm water, let dry and coat with alkyd primer/sealer. All Wallpapers To Go products are mildew-resistant and will keep the problem from reoccurring if all fungus is removed prior to hanging.
Things That Go Bump - Heavy-duty lining paper evens the surface of heavily-textured walls and bridges gaps and cracks on other problem walls. It is an easy, inexpensive way to provide an even, porous surface and increases adhesion by absorbing excess moisture. Allow paper to dry thoroughly (36 hours) before applying 2 coats of a white primer/sealer.
Depending on the type of wall, you may have to do the following additional prep work:
Textured Walls: There are three methods of removing or concealing wall texture.
Floating the Walls: Use a broad knife to trowel the joint compound over the rough walls in light, even coats. After the wall is at the preferred smoothness, allow to dry. Prime the newly smooth surface with 2 coats of primer/sealer.
Sanding: If the texture is minimal and the new wallcovering is heavily-textured, this process is adequate and time-saving. After sanding, a primer/sealer is applied. This method is the least preferred, however, because of the labor and the dust that covers the entire house.
Hang lining paper: Fill all holes and cracks with joint compound, chip off any high points with a broad knife, then lightly sand the wall surface in order to help even out the wall. Prime the wall and allow to dry thoroughly. Using a heavy-duty adhesive, apply to lining paper. Sometimes it really helps to paste both the wall surface and the back of the lining paper since the lining paper is so porous and heavy. Once the lining paper has dried, apply a primer/sealer.
Wood-paneled walls: Wash thoroughly with a deglossing solution and water, then sand smooth. Fill vertical grooves of paneling with spackle and apply primer; or apply primer and hang heavy-duty lining paper. Seal with acrylic or alkyd primer, allow to cure, and hang wallcovering.
How to Strip - Most wallcoverings are strippable and easy to remove. However, if you're having difficulty, your wallpaper can be soaked with wallpaper remover using a large sponge, spray bottle or roller. If your paper is non-porous, score the wallcovering with a "paper tiger." After stripping paper, wash walls with a cleaner and apply primer.
If you prefer to paper over an existing wallcovering, make sure it is firmly attached to the wall and is as smooth as possible. Cut an "X" in any bubbles and tear the loose pieces away, feathering the edges. Sand seams and glue down any curling corners with seam adhesive. Finally, seal the existing wall with white acrylic primer.
Something New - For new drywall, gypsum wallboard or other porous surfaces that have never been sealed or painted, apply two coats of alkyd primer. This assures that the paper will be strippable. When the alkyd primer is dry, apply one coat of clear acrylic primer and let dry (2 hours) before hanging wallpaper.
Misfits - Even if your walls are covered in plastic paneling, vinyl, Formica or glass, you can still apply wallcoverings. Just wash the surface with an all-purpose cleaner and apply a coat of acrylic wall primer.
Wallpaper Installation - How To Hang Wallpaper
Tools of the Trade. The road to redecorating can be paved with many potholes. But if you have the right tools, your journey to a beautiful new home will be a whole lot smoother. Before you begin your new project, you should have all of the following:
Smoothing tool
Roller and tray or pasting brush (for non-pasted paper)
Trim guide (or broad knife)
Sharp shears
Wall primer
Seam roller
Razor knife with extra blades
Bucket & sponge
Sandpaper
Border & seam adhesive
Water tray or pre-paste activator (for pre-pasted paper)
Level or plumb line
Yardstick
Drop cloth
Paste (for non-pasted wallcoverings)
Most of these items can be purchased at any Wallpapers To Go store. You can also get advice on the best way to prepare your walls at your local Wallpapers To Go store. With the perfect wallpaper and just a little coaching, you'll see how easy giving your home a completely beautiful new look can be.
Always Be Prepared - Before you begin hanging new wallpaper, your walls must first be prepared. If you haven't yet, read about wall preparation.
Get It Straight - Your wallpaper project will be a success if the very first strip of paper is hung straight. To be certain it is, measure the width of your wallpaper and subtract half an inch. Measure and mark this distance from your starting point (a corner or doorway). Draw a vertical line using a level or plumb line. For a plumb line, attach the weight to one end of the string and rub cord with chalk. Tack the line to the spot on the wall and drop weight just above floor or baseboard. When the weight stops swinging, grasp the bottom of the cord and hold taut. With your other hand, pull the cord away from the wall and snap back. This chalk line is your starting point. (To avoid seeing the chalk through your new paper, remember to remove any excess after you have positioned the first new strip.)
Got A Match - Measure the distance from ceiling to baseboard and add four inches (two at each end). Unroll wallpaper, pattern side up, and remove curl by reverse rolling. Choose the design you wish to be at ceiling level and start measurement two inches above this point. Measure and cut strip to size. Before cutting second strip, carefully match patterns.
Book 'Em - Pre-pasted: Fill water tray halfway with lukewarm water. Loosely roll wallpaper strip, pattern side in. Submerge in water for 15 seconds (follow manufacturer's instructions -- exact times may vary). Pull out slowly, unrolling as you go. Allow excess water to roll off. "Book" the paper by folding the top and bottom of the strip loosely to the center with pasted sides together, being careful not to crease the paper.
If you prefer, you may apply pre-paste activator with pasting brush or roller to the back of the paper. Do not submerge in water. Book paper to relax creases.
Non-pasted: Unroll paper and apply adhesive with pasting brush or roller to back of paper, starting at the center and working outwards. Be sure edges are well coated. Book paper to relax creases.
Get the Hang of It - Before getting started, cover your furniture and floor with drop cloths and set aside a wastebasket or box to hold the trimmings. Unfold the top portion of the first pasted strip and align it with your vertical chalk mark, overlapping about two inches o paper onto the ceiling. Make certain the main design pattern is positioned on the wall where you want it and that the strip is lined up perfectly with the chalk mark. Using a smoothing tool, work from the center of the strip to the edges and remove any air bubbles. When the top portion is smooth and the positioning is perfect, unroll the bottom half and continue smoothing, allowing the paper to overlap the baseboard. Double check that all air bubbles have been removed and that the strip is securely fastened to the wall.
Trim: Using the trim guide and cutting instrument, trim off the excess paper at the top and bottom of the strip. Move both tools simultaneously for an even cut. Sponge down the entire strip, including the woodwork and ceiling, to remove any excess paste (be sure and rinse sponge in clean water after each use). Move on to the next strip, taking care to match the pattern and butt the edges of the strips. Do not overlap seams!
Ceilings: Always hang the ceiling covering first if you plan to use matching or contrasting wallcoverings. Note: some random-match patterns have side-to-side shading and require reversing alternate strips top to bottom. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
The Seamy Side - Well-matched seams are extremely important to the quality of your finished room. After several strips have been hung, roll each seam lightly with a seam roller. Be careful not to roll too hard -- paste may squeeze out, leaving a dry seam and possibly damaging the wallpaper surface. Note: Certain pre-pasted wallcoverings have instructions not to roll seams. Always read manufacturer's instructions carefully.
Doors and Windows - When you come to a door or window casing, overlap the woodwork with the pattern. Position and smooth the paper up to the casing. Make a diagonal cut from the overlapped side of the strip to the outside corner of the casing. This will allow the top portion of the strip to be smoothed flat against the wall. Trim off excess as you did at the top and bottom of previous strips. Before trimming around casings, tap the wallcovering firmly into place with the smoothing tool. Sponge off excess paste and proceed with next strip.
In This Corner - Since very few corners are perfectly vertical, it is important to establish a new plumb line on each wall. When you come to a corner, hang the strip tightly into the corner, making sure the seam remains butted to the previous strip. Continue smoothing the remainder of the strip onto the next wall. Using a trim guide and cutting instrument, make a vertical cut from ceiling to baseboard, directly in the corner. Remove remaining portion of strip and set aside.
Next, measure the narrowest width of the retained strip. Snap or draw another vertical line half an inch less than the narrowest width measurement from the inside corner. Hang the retained strip along the vertical line, tapping the excess into the corner. Gently reach underneath and lift up the strip of paper that was cut directly in the corner and tap the new piece into place, overlapping the corner. Apply a small bead of border and seam adhesive to the overlapped area and lay down the piece that fits perfectly into the corner. Smooth corner and remove any excess adhesive.
A Good Outlet - Caution: Use extreme care when working with outlets of any kind. We recommend turning off your electricity before working around any electrical outlets.
Remove plates from switches and outlets. Loosen back plates of any wall fixtures. Proceed normally with hanging your paper until you come to an outlet box. Smooth paper to outlet and mark an outline of the electrical box on the wallpaper with a pencil. Pull strip away from the wall and make an "X" cut from corner to corner inside box. Smooth the strip down the rest of the way. Trim off the four flaps inside the box and replace plate.
To make the plate less noticeable, it can be covered with wallpaper before replacing it on the wall. Select a scrap of paper that will match the area cut out for the opening and place it over the plate (overlapping on all sides). Make a diagonal cut to each of the outside corners and into the inside corners of any openings. Wrap the excess around the back of the plate, smooth and replace.
If you come to a wall fixture, make a cut from the side of the strip in as far as the fixture will be when the strip is positioned. Make an "X" cut at the end of the cut. Slip the strip behind the back plate, allowing the fixture to slip through the cut slot and into the "X." Trim the four flaps from the "X" cut, then smooth and rejoin cut edges on other side and continue smoothing paper.
Woodchip wallpaper What is it?
The interior design statement that says “I really can’t be bothered’, knackered walls or ‘student let’. Woodchip wallpaper is quite literally wallpaper with wood chips in it. Crazy as it may sound it was hugely popular in the 70s and 80s, and the Germans who first invented it apparently still love it to bits.
Is it a deal breaker?
No, though buyers beware, its use in a home can signify that home maintenance wasn’t a number one priority to the vendor – or that the walls underneath are knackered.
What can you do about it?
It’s only wallpaper right? Well…If you’re lucky the original decorator will have done a sloppy job and the paper will peel off relatively easily. If the original decorator was a pro or if the woodchip has bonded with previous generations of painted wallpaper underneath then it can be real nightmare to remove.
Wallpaper stripper may be effective in areas where adhesion is bad, but the texture of the paper makes clean removal difficult without a lot of elbow grease.
OR: You can rent a professional wallpaper stripper and perforator. Available from most tool hire companies this slightly scary steamer and the medieval looking perforator that comes with it will turn a room into a sauna and liquidise your plaster if you leave it on too long, but can be very effective. First simply run the perforator up and down the wallpaper to pierce the surface enough for the steam to get inside, then rest the steam head against the area to be stripped. After a short time the woodchip can be scraped or peeled away with relative ease.
TOP TIP: as well as a long sleeved shirt, goggles and face-mask, wear the type of oven gloves actually shaped like a glove. The boiling hot steam can be difficult to control, the steam head WILL dribble on you when you least expect it, and scraping often puts your hand closer to the scalding steam than you would prefer.
Average cost of wallstripper plus perforator hire = £24.00 for the weekend.
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